若你正在讀這篇報告，我想你要不是因職責所在而得讀這篇報告的老師，就是有許多閒空時間的人；或者你很在意某件事，也相信以下的報告內容能讓你有所收獲。如果你是因職責所在而讀這篇報告，我要在這裡先為你撥出的時間及耐心向你致謝；若你是後者，那我得先提醒你，我從不是優等生，而包括我在內的許多人都認為我反應不怎麼快。我承認我一直對寫論文，規範生計，還有造成當今社會階級劃分等概念的教育正規體制很反感。我也了解要拿到學位，就要付出許多努力及金錢；但有許多學術領域外的知識領域，卻與我們的生活更貼近、更真實。而其中一個領域，就是衝浪藝術。

大部份不衝浪的人認為衝浪是種競爭性的運動；而評審在評比每個人的衝浪動作及技巧後決定分數，最後冠軍可贏得獎盃，或許會有贊助廠商高聘代言商品如洗髮精。而在藝術世界中，畫作也有像競爭運動一樣的宣傳現象。雖然這兩種活動都適合此比賽環境，也因此更加繁盛，但無疑的，中間付出的努力一定比獲獎的榮耀重要。

我還在唸文法班時，我的母親寫了一首歌，歌中描述一片落在溪中、隨水流漂走的小葉子；每次小葉子被河中樹枝或岩石擋住去向，溪流總會幫它重獲自由、繼續向前。而這股驅使我不斷深入鑽研繪畫的力量，就是愛。對萬物存在的關懷這讓我有毅力去豐富生命意義及存在的價值。這就類似蘇格拉底於《自辯篇》(Apology)中所解釋，我行自認所當行，一樣的道理。我像一般大眾一樣，相信所有存在的事物都是由我們無法了解的力量所造；但在了解這股力量的過程中，我們可能會找到離目的不遠的真相。因此就我目前了解，上帝是造我們萬物的創造者；而雖然我不確定祂造我們的目的，但祂也賦予我們欣賞及感恩的能力，而我亦然。藝術可以是對這份感恩，及渴求與造物主親密對談的真誠表達。

我獨自坐在海邊，此時夕陽漸漸隱沒山頭，入夜的涼風開始吹向岸邊，岸邊的石塊被海浪來回沖刷，發出低沉的震動聲，讓我心情無比平和。一股如肩高的海浪彎身捲出一抹優雅的弧線，呼喚著我下海衝浪。每個人無時無刻不在宇宙運行中，但極少人能有感受這份律動的機會。在眾星、月亮及腳底地球的推動下，滑行在水上的感覺是種純然的自然美；而心靈更欲與水舞上下畫出的優美弧線融為一體。這場大膽演現，無需見證才能歡喜慶祝，但你能感覺得到造物主立刻圍繞在身邊。之後，潮浪過去，我們一起划回海中等下一波浪；只是我不知道這波浪會在何時或何處襲來。在水中等待的同時，我們更能從不同湧浪方向、風況，開始感受到浪可能捲起的地點，而與大海的和平關係也隨之滋長。

我發現衝浪是個有創意又極具心靈層次的消遣活動，也因此我找到另個嗜好，繪畫。我相信創意點子就像能量波一樣可穿透牆及心靈，如果我們決心要抓到這些能量波，就一定要緊緊跟隨其後，以免這些能量波從身邊擦身而過，徒留我們在靜水中悵惘。衝浪少不了練習；而有時海浪沒有強大到讓我們衝得夠遠，但其他浪卻可能將我們重重拋下，讓頭部重創。我們畫得越多，對繪畫懂得越多，在創意上的努力就會得到更多收獲，並反映在我們日益茁壯的愛上。

因此我要在此對衝浪者、衝浪藝術，以及讓衝浪成為可能的大海及海浪致敬。每個人都在基督教、道教、東方的象徵主義及西方的神話中接觸到水的宗教層面。在審視藝術史的過程中，我們將會討論一些與水、浪相關的重要畫家，並仔細分析其作品及對畫壇的影響力。之後，我們將會討論到衝浪的源起、次文化，以及文化形態的全球化，並同時檢視藝術活動、感受、動力及哲學。最後，我們將透過本人的藝術創作，討論臺灣衝浪的誕生，並與一兩位可能對衝浪划水有點子的臺灣衝浪先驅對談。雖然許多資料搜集都來自台大或師大圖書館，但在海中練習衝浪技巧及記錄動作及感覺的過程，也是無價的寶貴經驗。從其他衝浪者的訪談中提供相關主題，也更進一步認識可能成為題材的衝浪者。

我的目標，在於對大海及與海共舞的衝浪者有更佳的了解，與創作由海浪哲學、動作及衝浪者精神啟發的藝術作品。我希望能從幾個看起來對立的角度，接近此項目的繪畫面。不斷重覆練習各種筆觸，直到創作形態的動作呈現自然順暢，有如中國書法中的一氣呵成，但我也在探索一些西方傳統構圖及寫實主義畫派技巧，建立自己獨特的畫風。

If you are reading this I presume that you are either a teacher, and it’s part of your job or that you have a lot of extra time on your hands or maybe you deeply care about something and believe that the following pages will present you with something worth your time. If the first of these be the case then I thank you for your time and patience, if the last of these be true then be warned that I was never a bright kid and that many including myself would consider me to be a bit slow minded. From the beginning I must say that I have an aversion to the idea of scholarly writing and to the formal system of education that has come to regulate the lively hoods and the divisions of social classes in the modern world. I understand that to earn one degree or another takes a lot of effort and money, but there are many realms of knowledge which lay much closer to our lives and bare far less pretense that fall outside the realm of academia. One such field is the art of surfing.
For a majority of people who don’t surf, surfing is considered a sport and a competitive one at that, where ones movements or tricks are compared with another’s by judges who determine a score and pick a winner who gets a trophy for his efforts and then finds his place among the sponsors selling shampoo. A similar phenomenon has occurred in the Art world with painting being promoted as a competitive sport. Though both of these activities can fit and prosper in such a sporting environment there is unquestionably more to the effort than the glory of a prize.
When I was in grammar school, my mother wrote a song about a little leaf that dropped into a stream and was swept on by a gentle current, every time it snagged on a branch or a rock the water seemed to set it free. The driving force that leads me and carries me to delve into an intensive study of painting is love. It is a caring for existence that gives me the will to make my life into something meaningful, and worthy of that existence. Sort of like Socrates explains in the Apology, I do what I do because I believe it is right. I believe as is common that all that exist is created by a force that is beyond our understanding, but in seeking to understand it we may find truth, which is not far from purpose. So from my current understanding God is that creative force that made us and for what, I am not certain, but he gave us the capacity to appreciate it and to be thankful in it, and so I am. Art can be a genuine expression of that appreciation and a desire to commune with the creator.
Sitting alone on the ocean as the sun sinks behind the mountains and the early evening breezes begin to blow off shore the roll of rocks being sucked down and washed back up onto the beach makes a purring sound and the mood is gentle. A shoulder high peak sucks up a wall and throws itself into a graceful curve and calls me to paddle. We are all constantly in cosmic motion but few are the opportunities to feel the movement. Gloriously gliding on water propelled by the moon and the stars and the earth below you, the feeling is of natural beauty and the mind seeks to unite with the rising and falling of water in a dance of curves. The bold performance needs no witness to celebrate with joy, though there is a feeling that the maker is at once all around you. Then the wave is passed and we paddle back out together to wait for another believing it will come but never certain when or where. With time in the water one begins to sense more where the waves may peak with various swell directions and wind conditions, and a relationship with a peace of the ocean grows.
As I have found surfing to be a creative and spiritual pursuit so I find painting and I believe that creative ideas are like waves of energy that pass through walls and minds and if we have the will to catch those waves we must chase them lest they pass on by and leave us in flat water. It will take some practice and some waves may be to small and weak to carry us far while others will dump us on our heads, and bloody our skulls. The more we paint and learn about painting the more our creative efforts will be realized and come to reflect our growing love.
Here and after I pay tribute to the surfer, the art of surfing and to the sea and waves which make it possible. We will touch on religious aspects of water in Christianity and in Taoism, as well as symbolism in Eastern and western Mythology. We will scan through a history of Art dropping in on important painters of waves and water with careful analysis of their influences and work. Next we will discuss the origins of surfing, the subculture and the globalization of the art form, while examining the movements, feelings, motivations and philosophy of the Art. Finally through my own creative works we will discuss the arrival of surfing in Taiwan and meet a few of Taiwan’s surfing pioneers who may have some ideas on the stoke of waves. Much of the information gathering will be done through the library at Taiwan Normal University or Taiwan National University, but time in the water practicing the technique and recording movements and feelings will be invaluable. Interviews with other surfers will also be utilized to find common themes and to understand more about individual surfers who may become subjects.
My goal is to develop a better understanding of the sea and the people who dance with her in order to create works of art which will be inspired by the movements and philosophy of waves and the spirit of the people who ride them. I hope to approach the painting side of this project from several seemingly contradictory angles. The practiced repetition of different strokes until the shape creating movements become natural and flow as the brush should in Chinese calligraphy without breaking the energy is part of the project, but I also hope to explore some traditional western techniques of composition and realism, while searching for my own style which is influenced by all that I do and see.

參考書目

山根有三 〈西元1979年〉 琳派紜画全集一光琳派 東京:日本經濟新聞社

林育淳〈西元1998年〉油彩熱情陳澄波 台北: 雄獅圖書股份有限公司

高輝陽 〈西元1978年〉 馬遠繪畫之研究 台北: 文史哲出版社

陳瓊花〈西元1994年〉自然寫生林玉山 台北:雄獅圖書股份有限公司

黃小燕 〈西元2004年〉浪人秋歌張義雄 台北: 雄獅圖書股份有限公司

Bernard, B., (1987),Vincent by Himself, Macdonald and Company, Ltd,.

Borsch-Supan, H. (1990) Casper David Fredrich, Munich: Prestel-Verlag

Brook-Hart, D., (1974), British 19th Century Marine Painting, Suffolk: Antique Collectors' Club.

Brothers, C., (2008) Michelangelo, Drawing, and the Invention of Architecture, Yale University Press.

Davis, W. (2008) The World Wide Web of Belief and Ritual, Monterey, Cal.: T.E.D. Youtube.com

Forrer,M., Prestel-Verlag, (1991) Hokusai Prints and Drawings, Munich: Prestel-Verlag.

Harris, R., (2003) The necessity of Art Speak, Roy Harris, New York, Continuum.

Hauser, A.,(1982)The Sociology of Art, Translated by Kenneth J. Northcott, London: Routledge and Kegan Paul.

Hogarth, B., (1990) Dynamic Anatomy, New York: Watson-Guptil Publications.

Ivins, W., M., Jr. (1946) Art and Geometry, New York: Dover Publications, Inc.

Jamieson, D., (1991) Draw From Your Head, Watson-Guptill Publications.

Keyes, G., S., (1990) Mirror of Empire , Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

Laurie, A. P., (1967) The painters Methods and Materials, New York: Dover Publications, inc.

Martin Butlin, (1980) Turner at the Tate, London: Turner Gallery.

Muhlberger, R., (1991) The Bible And Art, Moore & Moore Pbl.

PiJoan, J.,( 1940), Art in Ancient Times, Chicago,Il.: University of Knowledge Incorporated.

Robertson, L., (2005) Understanding International Art Markets And Management, New York: Routledge..

Robinson, J., (1973), Marine Painting in Oil, New York: Watson Guptill Publications/New York.

Rorthlisberger, M.,(1983) Im Lichtvon Claude Lorrain, Marcel Rorthlisberger, Munchen: Haus Der Kunst.

Sinclair, N.,(2004), Kyffin Williams, Lund Humphries, Burlington ,VT: Lund Humphries.

Spivey, N., (2005) How Art Made the World, BBC World Wide Limited.

Taft, R., (1953) Artist and Illustrations of the Old West, New York: Charles Scribbner’s Sons.

Tomlinson, J., (1999) Globalization and Culture, Cambridge, UK: Polity Press, Cambridge.

Walker, J.,(1983) Turner, New York: Harry N. Abrams Inc. Publishers,

Wilmerding, J.(1991), American Views, Princeton University Press..

Wilson-Bareau, J.,(1991) Manet by Himself, Macdonald and Company, Ltd.

Zwijnenberg, R., (1999) The Writings of Leonardo Da Vinci, Cambridge University Press.

.