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研究生: 方雨婷
Finney, Taylor Marikey
論文名稱: 迪奧與凱魯亞克的多模態之旅:探究迪奧 2022 秋季男裝系列中的翻譯現象
Dior and Kerouac, A Multimodal Adventure: Exploring Translational Phenomena in Dior Men's Fall 2022 Fashion Collection
指導教授: 李根芳
Lee, Ken-Fang
口試委員: 鄭靜宜
Cheng, Ching-Yi
胡宗文
Hu, Daniel
李根芳
Lee, Ken-Fang
口試日期: 2023/07/12
學位類別: 碩士
Master
系所名稱: 翻譯研究所
Graduate Institute of Translation and Interpretation
論文出版年: 2023
畢業學年度: 111
語文別: 英文
論文頁數: 146
中文關鍵詞: 翻譯改編符際翻譯符內翻譯多模態翻譯多模態性以時尚為翻譯媒介文化中介
英文關鍵詞: adaptational translation, intersemiotic translation, intrasemiotic translation, multimodal translation, multimodality, fashion as translation, cultural intermediary
研究方法: 個案研究法
DOI URL: http://doi.org/10.6345/NTNU202301310
論文種類: 學術論文
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  • 近年來,不少翻譯研究開始探討各類新媒體如何被用作翻譯媒介。雖然時尚在 新媒體中無處不在,但只有少數研究分析時尚媒體如何被用作翻譯媒介。迪奧 2022 秋季男裝系列時裝秀以傑克凱魯亞克的作品為主題。通過分析此時裝秀, 本研究旨在探討設計師如何運用時尚元素翻譯「垮掉的一代」(Beat Generation)的作品和精神,並以布迪厄(Bourdieu)文化中介者的角度審視 迪奧設計團隊,探究設計師如何扮演譯者角色。本文援引兩位學者的理論分析 迪奧設計團隊的翻譯策略:(1)嘉登(Gottlieb)的翻譯分類模型:嘉登提出 的模型挑戰以語言學為中心的翻譯研究方法,並激發翻譯非語言題材的討論。 (2)卡因德爾(Kaindl)的多模態翻譯理論:卡因德爾的理論以模態、媒介和 類型之轉變分析翻譯。考慮到迪奧的設計過程相對不透明,筆者首先借鑑自身 對時尚行業的認識,識別此時裝秀元素對應的原文(STs)可能為何、有哪些內 容被翻譯以及如何被翻譯。本研究接著探討符號的轉變,並比較原文和時裝秀 上的符號多寡。研究結果發現,該時裝秀應用了嘉登翻譯分類模型中的六種翻 譯類型。本研究同時也分析了跨模態、同模態間、跨媒介、同媒介間、以及跨 類型翻譯的例子。最後,筆者將檢視時尚作為翻譯媒介的潛在優勢與侷限。

    A growing body of translation studies research is drawing attention to the translational capacities of diverse, nonconventional media. Despite fashion's ubiquity and visibility in new media, little research has analyzed the capacities of fashion-related media to translate. This study examines Dior Men's Fall 2022 fashion show, an event organized to promote the collaboration between Dior and the estate of Jack Kerouac, to discover how event components act as translations of Beat Generation works and values. This research looks at Dior's creative team from the perspective of Bourdieu's theory of cultural intermediaries to consider how designers act as translators. The taxonomy of translation types proposed by Gottlieb also guides analysis of the translation process. Gottlieb developed the model to challenge translation studies' linguistics-centered approach and open discussions of translations involving nonlinguistic text types. This study pairs Gottlieb's taxonomy with Kaindl's theory of multimodal translation, which analyzes translations based on changes in mode, medium, and genre. Accounting for the relative opacity of the corporate design process and drawing from the author's own industry knowledge, the analysis identifies show components' potential source texts (STs), what content is translated, and how. The study discusses changes in semiotic mode and the show components' semiotic loads relative to their STs. The study finds translations belonging to six categories of Gottlieb's taxonomy and identifies examples of intramodal, intermodal, intramedial, intermedial, and intergeneric translation. Finally, the study considers potential advantages and limitations of fashion as a medium of translation.

    Abstract ii 摘要 iii List of Figures vi Chapter 1: Introduction 1 1.1 Intersemiotic Translation & Multimodality 2 1.2 Exploring the Designer as Translator 9 1.2.1 Fashion as Communication 9 1.2.2 Exploring the Designer as Translator 13 1.3 The Texts 20 1.3.1 Kerouac and the Beat Generation 22 1.3.2 Kim Jones and Dior 24 1.4 Significance & Motivation 26 1.5 Structure 29 Chapter 2: Literature Review 32 2.1 Complicating the Source Text 32 2.2 Fashion as Translation 37 2.3 Methodology & Research Questions 43 Chapter 3: Translating Values & Desires 46 3.1 The Exhibition 48 3.1.1 A Brief History of the Fashion Show 48 3.1.2 The Rare Book Exhibition 49 3.1.3 Summary of Findings 59 3.2 Model Selection & The Body 61 3.2.1 Model Selection 62 3.2.2 Hair Styling 67 3.3 Translating the Travel Bug 72 3.4 Conclusion 74 Chapter 4: Translating the Beats' Legacy 76 4.1 The Runway 76 4.1.1 Translation Types 81 4.2 The Soundtrack 82 4.2.1 Translation Types 86 4.3 Clothing and Accessories 87 4.3.1 Translating Peritexts 88 4.3.2 Quoting the Narrative 104 4.3.3 Translating Beat Dress 108 4.4 Conclusion 118 Chapter 5: Conclusion 122 Works Cited 126 Figures Cited 136 Appendix 1: Introductory Panel Text 141 Appendix 2: Gottlieb's Translation Types 143 Appendix 3: Soundtrack Lyrics 145

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